Date: Monday, December 27
Subject: Nature's Wrath
Wow! !
The power of nature. First, an earthquake thousands of kilometers away in Sumatra, then within hours, tens of thousands kilometers coastland overtaken by the sea. Tens of thousands involuntary human sacrifices to nature.
I've never seen so many real dead bodies piled over each other all this life. Luckily, I'm safe in my Bangkok apartment, but the Thai news have coverage at all hours so it's not easy to avoid. It's a constantly changing body count race between the southern provinces of Phuket, Phanga, Krabi, Ranong, Trang, and Satun, the provinces on Thailand's western coast overlooking the Andaman Sea.
According to the local news, one big problem is preserving so many corpses until they are claimed or identified, many being foreign tourists with no identification available. All the storage space at hospitals and temples are filled to the max and bodies are starting to rot.
So far, it looks like Phanga province has the lead with well over 500 fatalities thus far followed by Phuket passing the 200 mark. It seems like many sources have different figures, but what is for sure is the number is constantly going up as so many are still missing.
What did they say, a 9.5 on the rictor or something making it the fourth largest earthquake in contemporary history and the biggest Tsunami in the region ever. With estimates as high as 40 ++ Thousand perished in the southern Asian coastal region, who knows what the injured figure is ??
And Thailand seems to have been luckier than Indonesia, Sri Lanka, and India, it's just so shocking as nothing has happened like this to Thai populations in recorded history . What about all the Andaman islands of Myanmar, their so isolated, I wonder what the situation is like there?
The collection of corpses of all ages and races looks like a wars doing, but by golly this ain't no war over oil or religion;
This is a natural war. All year long, we waste away the world's resources in heaps and take every packaged comfort for granted. As advanced as modern science and global communications between international markets are, the earth's wrath will strike in the most vulnerable spots at the least expected moment.
Think about all those tourists sun bathing on the beach before the massive flow of ocean over takes the coast within seconds.
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Date : Wednesday, December 29
Subject : Contributing
So the count continues to rise as more corpses get unveiled from the sea. Somewhere over 2000 in Thailand with at least a thousand more missing and the region toll is reaching towards 100,000 mark quickly.
And so I couldn't take sitting in my apartment doing nothing except watching the news. Originally, I wanted to go directly to the Andaman coast and fill in any need to come to terms with nature, but that might have to wait.
On top of the natural disaster, the country prepares to lower a human disaster for the New Years celebrations: Every one packs the roads to get to their homes in the country and outer provinces free from their jobs in Bangkok for a few days. The festivals and celebrations always bring a high death toll in this country as it is with all the drunk driving. Thus, the goverment tries harder and harder each year with a new 'don't drink/drive' campaign that never seems to work.
And so, I decided to volunteer here in Bangkok. The world is so generous now as millions come together to contribute in one way or another from across the globe. Today, I made my way out to the Bangkok suburban district of Rungsit, here at Thamasat University, where many surviving tourists with no place to go came. As I had imagined, there is more than enough people here to council and answer the phones, but as for tonight, I'm just hanging out on standby in case anything comes up. Lots of donated food, refreshments, computers, news, television to keep comfortable the dozens of people hanging out in this room and outside. So can't say I'm contributing much this late hour. It's midnight and I'll hang around till tomorrow where I can do some needed work like I did earlier.
Earlier, we were at the military airport where the bulk of donated food, clothes, water, appliances, ply-wood caskets, you name it are all stocked in a massive warehouse being organized to be loaded on to Thai, American, German, and Japanese planes (to name a few) headed for the disaster relief in the southern region. Mostly local volunteers and soldiers moving around several hundred tons of the peoples' generosity. There's much to be done and if I can't be down there with my knees in mud, I can do my best from up here while I have the time.
So hopefully, anyone else in Thailand reading this might want to contribute something if you haven't already. If you are like me with not any money to give, there is always blood or time. Please let me know via mobile and we can talk more and coordinate something (01 343 3802)
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Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2005 02:33:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: The Dead were talking...
The new year has brought much change to my eyes and thinking. I paid a visit to the dead in Phanga province (the epi-center for Thailand's damage)
After volunteering my services last week both at the airport and Thamasat University (where some survivors went) I had gateway to information about free flights from Bangkok to the south for volunteers. So I went with a small group of students who were preparing to smell and carry the dead.
The demand was for Phanga, but we had to fly to Phuket as there is no airport in Phanga. By the time we got there, it was too late to go to Phanga so instead, our group went to the Pa tong hospital as stand by volunteers. (Pa tong is the tourist center beach of Phuket which was hardest hit in that province with more than a few hundred missing/dead from that beach alone) That last evening of the year was mainly reception work for missing person/patience checks from loved ones/friends of victims.
The first agenda of the new year was to get the free shuttle service (for volunteers) to the Yan Yao temple of Ta gua Pa district. This ride heading north along the Andaman coast took almost two hours. Prior to arriving to the temple of mass corpses, we passed the hardest hit beach in all of Thailand, Kao Luk. The coast road is probably one to two kilometers from the ocean here, but it's pretty obvious of how so many could have/did perished in this area.
Kao luk was starting to become a popular tourist/resort area, and it's no wonder---looking at the gorgeous green jungle/coastal view of the vast sea from the mountain coast road. It was a paradise that was doomed. Cars flipped, hotels/resorts ravished. Nothing left but some trees and tons of left over-rubbish. As far as I mentioned the road is from the ocean, the concrete power lines along the highway were wiped out only being replaced recently.
 Finally we got to the scene of the temple, where all the discovered corpses were being collected. Prior to this, I've seen a few corpses of loved ones at funerals, but that's nothing to what beheld my senses at the temple. Hundreds of corpses lined side by side in plastic body bags, some lacking even that. The collection of the stench of decomposing flesh/organs is only imaginable with words.
By that time, the dead had been well into the decomposing state with only tons of dried ice put over/around the bags to slow the process down. Prior to entering the back area of the temple where all the corpses were, one had to be dressed properly with boots, make to do medical suit with plastic gloves and head cover, not to mention the ventilation breathing mask to make the smell more bearable.
The dress station coordinator then told me and my group of four guys that before he gave us full dress, he wanted us to take a quick walk through the corpse area to test if we could handle it. He told us that many who thought they could handle backed out after the sight and smell having to throw away a full suit. We agreed and eventually got our full suit.
We weren't in the corpse area for more than two minutes when an Australian forensics team examining one large corpse requested help to translate a tag (attached to the wrist of the corpse) written in Thai which simply stated that the corpse was a foreigner. After their autopsy check, they asked our fresh group to carry the corpse to be loaded in a shed.
From there, we could only adapt to the smell and area having to move and transfer many more rotting corpses before the day was done. The second day was a little more difficult as it was hot, and much more crowded as that was a Sunday. From the beginning of the day, I was assigned to a "Find Corpse" team which we were responsible for tagging unidentified corpses with a number. The purpose of this was for loved ones and cousins looking for someone could first, look at pictures of the unidentified corpses posted outside the temple and then, if they believed that one of the pictures was their person, they would take that number and we'd help them locate the real corpse and identify the corpse. This method would soon come undoable as none of the corpses were recognizable except for the clothes.
Thus, the medical experts were starting to become of importance. The DNA and Dental teams started flooding the corpses to collect samples. And so on the third day, I was promoted to DNA assistance team. I followed around a small group with the task of collecting DNA samples from thigh and arm flesh. If the corpse was too rotten or decomposed, we would have to get it from a bone sample. As worse as the smell got, by then I was used to it just trying to bear the heat in that hot suit. Once the sample was collected and documented, I had to a tag which read DNA on the corpse's wrist, where the corpse moving team would carry it off to some other storage.
 My original group decided to go back on the second day as they had to get ready for University studies in Bangkok but I stayed another day as some friends from University came down to volunteer some (Jonas, Andre, and Sherwin) By the third day, we decided to return to Phuket where we could stay in a free hotel near Pa tong beach courtesy of Sherwin's friend's mom.
Though I am back in Bangkok now, I can't seem to relax, there is so much work to be done. Soon I will have to go back to my own job but feel like I could still do more down there. Doesn't look like I'm gonna be taking any classes this term at University as I can't make the payment in time. Oh well, life goes on, at least nature didn't make me pay, though I know I owe a lot to her power and glory.
Ok, that should be enough gruesome reality for one mail. As anything else changes, I'll let you know more
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Date: January 7, 2005
Subject: Round Two, Day Two
I have found myself back in Phanga province here at Kao Lak area, which was the hardest hit area in Thailand. It is interesting to know that the word for broken in Thai is 'phang' (pronounced 'pung') and that precisely describes the coastal area down here quite well. The irony makes it hard to believe that this is merely a coincidence.
I wasn't in Bangkok for long before I decided that my role wasn't through just yet, at least not while I still had free time. The dead stuck in my mind. Thus, I talked to a fellow student/friend, Jussi from Finland to join me for another round of Tsunami assessment down south.
This time, I was given a contact within the Royal Thai air force and we got to fly in a military transport plane. Felt like we were going parachuting--no flight hostess, no cold drinks. Prior to boarding the plane, we met a middle aged Thai Chinese man from Seattle with a cover as a UN observer. He was quite outgoing, and invited us to join him. After landing in Phuket, we waited for transport up to Phanga. After sampling donated Iceland spring water and filling our bellies with rice and chicken feet, finally our transport van arrived.
Fate brought Jussi and I to meet this man known as Watsin, and so it would be that we were to join a coordinated group of young volunteers at Kao Lak nature resort. In contrast to several days ago, this was like a promotion. The three of us would be comfortable at night sharing a resort bungalow with hot water after a hard day's work. So that day, prior to retiring, we did some work at the temple were Jussi got to see his first corpse from the disaster. As goes the process, the first body is the hardest--every one after that becomes natural.
Eventually, Jussi and I had to hitch hike from the temple to our accommodations which is about 30 km distance. At first, we couldn't find a ride through volunteer announcers but as soon as we had police officers make us a sign which read 'Kao Lak' (in Thai), we had a ride within minutes. Settling down gave time for reflection and energy restoration as the spirits of thousands made contact via midnight breezes. Today, I needed a change up from the standard temple routine. Besides, they seemed to be getting more comfortable at the temple by the day. Only gone for a day, and already they had free massage and hair washing service more crowded than ever before. So after talking around at the resort, we decided to go to Bahn Nam Kem, one of the hardest hit fishing villages in Phanga. It was amazing to see first hand the power of the Andaman:
To understand the power of the Tsunami's wave, picture a dry chocolate chip cookie. Dip that cookie in milk and then step on it. The remains of thousands of shrimp farms, houses, docks, boats, and vehicles in this village is similar to that cookie. Instead of crumbs of broken chocolate, we have the remains of people's lost lifestyles: Karaoke CD cases, Sony playstation, television sets, Finish butter, fishing reels, and fish sauce bottles are only a few examples of what you might find in the Tsunami landfill after math. Indeed, there are stories to be told from these piles of crumbled concrete that used to home to thousands of fishing villagers and their families of which less than half of the population survived in the villages and island that I surveyed today.
Across from the village of Bahn Nam Kem, about 100 meters, is a long island called Koh Ko Kao which was temporarily vanished from the map during the Tsunami. Jussi and explored an empty beach here which used to host a brand new resort and several fisherman houses. All that is left now aside from the foundations of the more invested homes, is sand, wood, dead coral, buckets, pillows, chairs, tables, and trash among other things. Most of the trash is salvageable as far as recycling/reusing, and from this survey, I want to organize a recycle group here tomorrow. Where Jussi and I made a small pile of bottles and plastic, a larger group of 10 or more could really make a difference before the bulldozers take over which are slowly making pace. Most of the other trash might have to be burnt in a bonfire, but that will be clearer as the coordination comes through.
Most of the surviving villagers here have the option to go to camps set up where food and the necessities are provided, but many choose to gather with other villagers at stronger houses not completely obliterated. Many of them still have missing relatives and loved ones still unaccounted for and it's hard to say anything as it will come down to DNA and dental testing. I wasn't sure what response would be proper to these surviving villagers knowing that thousands of the unaccounted corpses are still lost in the ocean, sand pits, flooded ponds, and who knows where. And they seemed to be coping with such facts accordingly.
One thing is for sure, death comes to all. It is clear from looking at the pictures and remains of those who perished, materials such as gold rings, cash, cell phones, name cards, and fashion clothes mean nothing at the gate of death. We all bleed red and become dirt. The effort to preserve such a material corpse only adds stink to the effort.
Ok, this is enough for one day. It might be several days before I can get back on the response and correspondence, but eventually, I'll get back to everyone.
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Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2005 20:32:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Sidartha prevails.
And so the work continues. Yesterday, many of the student members that I came with initially last week, mostly Thamasat students, followed my example to the south for a second round.
We were all lucky to fall into this organized / sponsored association circle of volunteers, which has provided us accommodations, meal, and transportation to the various disaster sights.
They met me here at Kao Lak Nature resort and registered with this group of "Sor Sor Sor" volunteer association. (?????????????????????????????????????????) Volunteers come from all over the world, but a majority of them are young and passionate Thais that came in groups to join the larger group.
Now I had my own small following forming. These young and motivated students that I know simply as Bank, Jit, Aohm, Emmy, Gik, and June joined Jussi, myself, and the group leader Tor Watsin in a project that Jussi and I helped design after our disaster survey of Kor Kao island the other day.
Our mission was to collect recyclable materials from the beach for the locals to decide thereafter. Our concern was that once the bulldozers made there way to the now vacant beaches, they would demolish everything gathering all natural / synthetic rubbish in piles---most likely to be burned on the spot.
After breakfast and group briefing, we hopped in our transport truck and headed to Yan Yao temple, where we stocked up on necessity supplies (water, milk, snacks, etc.) to pass out to needy villagers on the island. From Bahn Nam Kem village (as described in the last email) we boarded our truck side to side with other vehicles onto the transport ferry for the approximately one point five kilometer trip to Kor Kao island. This island is a lot bigger than I initially thought. From the mainland it looks so small, but as we would soon find out, it stretches for many kilometers on the back side where a small village, military post, and school is located.
Before we could begin our beach run, we had an additional role/responsibility to help coordinate and participate in the national Children's day holiday at the island primary school. As we arrived to the village, the activities were already under way with a group of hospital nurses and doctor from Bangkok on the site with the surviving villagers and children. For several hours, every one played fun games and contests which brought smiles and laughs to the community. Among the activities held included a few games of tug and war-first with the children then with the elders. Our group of 11 volunteers were no match for the villagers co-ed team of 10. Not even the tough group of soldiers could take these strong villagers on, which is no surprise knowing that these people had seen nature's sweep of death head on, yet survived.
By the afternoon, we made part from the thankful villagers who happily accepted our offers of charity. Next, we headed to survey the coast on that side. For at least two kilometers out of sight from the sea, the Andaman's presence and impact was obvious, leaving no man made structure standing proud. Wisdom is observed here as trees only several meters high lost some low lying/ small branches, where larger trees appeared untouched (with a few older trees completely unearthed from root carried far inland).
This first spot suffered only the loss of a few bungalows, where it took us a short moment to collect some rubbish. At seaside, the sun was brightly glittering in the vast blue sea reflected by the white sands. From the woods several meters inland, the shade provided a breath taking view and reflection point. We took a moment for the beauty to soak in before we had to move on. As there was no more work to be done here, we moved on to other spots.
As a developing leader, I did my best to coordinate our group of 12 (including the driver and another student volunteer) to collect the plastic/glass bottles, foam, and other rubbish that shouldn't be burnt. There was some disagreement about what we should do with these bag loads as it wouldn't be proper to carry them off the island, and it should be to the initiative of the locals to recycle and reuse. So in the end, we agreed to drop off everything at the island temple as any recycling would be conducted there for rural populations.
The last beach we scanned beheld what used to be a large resort with at least 50 bungalows from what we could tell. All that was left of anything were their concrete foundation bases. When told we had arrived at the temple, I thought others were lying to me out of laziness of carrying around the rubbish, as there was nothing left at that spot. As the truck pulled out, I saw that it truly was the temple for prince Sidartha, the enlightened Buddha's statue sat strong and tall in the Subduing Mara posture with only scratches. The _expression on his face seemed abnormal from the usual, almost suggesting shock, but last I remembered, statues don't have feelings, right?. Never the less, it was a natural and powerful sight with palm trees and the Andaman to the Prince's backside. This sight of everything else man made surrounding the statue including it's housing structure obliterated should definitely have meaning and impact for those who see, particularly the survivors.
So long,
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Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 09:51:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle
Today, I went with a survey group of volunteers to Pra Tong island just north of Kor Kao. The group was mostly the same as yesterday without Jussi, Bank, Emmy, and June as they decided to return to Bangkok today.
Our team of more than 20 headed about 80 kilometers north of Kao Lak this morning to board a long tail motor boat at the Kuraburi port. Though the sun was shining strong and motor loud, it was relaxing to push through the emerald green coastal waters. In every direction, small tropical islands blocked out a full few of the Andaman.
The first beach we deboarded was the abandoned and devastated village of Baak Joke. As seen at Nam kem village and Kor Kao island, the Tsunami left most of the tall palm trees standing tall with no mercy for concrete civilization. Baak Joke was different in one sense as there wasn't a relief worker let alone villager to be seen. The only sign of moving life were some crabs roaming the ocean beach water floor and a few dogs running around the ruins as if nothing had happened.
Next, we surveyed another beach to check out some resort remains. We must have deboarded at the wrong spot as this beautiful peninsula was calling. Upon deboarding in calm waters, about 10 meters up was a boat washed ashore which didn't show signs of any serious damage. Behind this was a small hill which revealed the beach facing the entire Andaman on the other side. At the north end of the beach, the roaring waves crashed its white foam against a rocky incline. About 25 to 35 meters high at its summit was a wooden shelter calling me for a short nap.
As you have followed, my activities this round in Phanga have shifted from corpse work at the temple to land/environment surveying at various beaches and islands. This is precisely what I wanted to contribute in as this Tsunami was merely a medium for Mother Nature's message.
Knowing what we know, and yet refusing to make any changes in our convenient consuming lifestyles is not only wrong, it's deadly as we have seen.
Thus far, I haven't seen any serious active stances environmentally down here. As is the convenient practice, all the piles of rubbish created are most likely to be burnt as to clear off the agenda as quickly as possible. The sad point to this is that much of the content is foam plastic, and glass that could easily be reused and recycled granted the right initiative from the right people.
What may be surprising to many is the fact that much of the rubbish that I have surveyed is a result from the disaster relief effort, not the Tsunami. While it's great that many have donated food, water, and energy drinks, the new burden is more piles of Styrofoam containers, plastic spoons, glass/ plastic bottles in added tons either contaminating the sea or waiting to be burnt into the ozone layer.
END
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